Duboce Triangle

Just about the time everyone was rediscovering what an interesting neighborhood Haight-Ashbury is, somebody noticed that there was another ’hood to its east that had grown distinct from the original and, in fact, could justifiably be considered the “other” Haight. Although that moniker never stuck, “Lower Haight” did, and today it is an area with its own character, in many ways different (some might even go so far as to say better) than the original (sometimes known as Upper Haight). It’s a bit tidier and quieter, less touristy and more indicative of what a San Francisco neighborhood is like than its progenitor on the other side of Buena Vista hill, but with its own urban grit and maverick culture that make it stand out from the increasingly gentrified neighborhoods around it.

And just as it was peeling off from Upper Haight, it was also coming to terms with its connections to Hayes Valley. For many years, Lower Haight had to contend with the crime and drug activity associated with the numerous housing projects on its borders. Though much of that problem has cleared with rebuilt public housing and increased police and resident vigilance, the area remains a sort of crime filter, with small-time drug dealing and theft along its borders as well as residual activity from what’s left of the once-dominant gangs. Physical boundaries are also an issue: Whereas the dividing line between Upper and Lower Haight is generally considered to be Divisadero, the point where Lower Haight ends and Hayes Valley begins has been difficult to define. Some say Webster Street, others Laguna (Waller and Fell streets are the generally accepted south and north boundaries, respectively). Still others say Lower Haight extends all the way to Octavia Boulevard, the highly successful reconfiguration of the surface street that ran under the late and little-lamented Central Freeway. The latter would put not only the U.S. Mint but also the recently built LGBT Community Center within the neighborhood limits (something much of its diverse population would likely approve).

Lower Haight has the advantage among a very few of San Francisco’s neighborhoods of harboring a number of historic buildings from the 19th century spared not just the great quake and subsequent fire of 1906, but also the mutilation that many architectural survivors faced as they were updated or “renovated.” Indeed, a number of notable Victorian buildings, many in the ornate Italianate or later Stick styles popular at the time, line the streets, some of them intact as single-family residences. For a fine example, see the Nightingale House at the corner of Waller and Buchanan; this landmark home was built using Stick, Eastlake, and Chalet ornamentation in 1882 for the president of the California Pioneers, who arrived in San Francisco during the Gold Rush. Numerous others sit shoulder to shoulder on Page between Fillmore and Webster, including the Daniel Einstein home (584 Page), another landmark with an impressive turret. Germania, a narrow, leafy side-street between Webster and Steiner, has an array of modest cottages and two-story houses that, if lacking a cascade of architectural marvels, make a charming splash of their own.

The neighborhood also offers a number of streets of little or no incline between the hills that rise from downtown and South of Market to Golden Gate Park and the neighborhoods near the ocean, and for this reason is a favorite among bicyclists, who have christened a mile-long stretch through the area “The Wiggle” for its zigzag (though flat) route bypassing steep hills.

Who lives here? According to U.S. Census Bureau statistics, it’s a fairly diversified population of 15,000 or so made up of 65 percent white, 15 percent black, and the remaining 20 percent divided among Asians, American Indians, and people of two or more races. (About 8 percent of all races identify as Latino or Hispanic.) They are young (median age: 32), educated (65% have a bachelor’s degree or higher), and more or less economically well off (with a median household income of about $60,000 a year). About three-quarters rent their living spaces, with the remaining quarter owning their homes.

Though each street corner seems to have a laundromat or coffeehouse, most businesses and restaurants cluster along Haight Street, particularly in the four blocks between Webster and Pierce. Here is where you’ll find a Walgreeens, a natural foods store, a meat-and-fish market, a few used-and-new record stores (check out Rooky Ricardo’s for its collection of old soul, jazz, gospel, and reggae LPs and a thousands of vintage 45s), a couple of smoke shops, a number of bars (including Toronado, famous for its dozens of beers on tap, and Mad Dog in the Fog, a hub for soccer and rugby fans with its satellite TV), and eateries both ethnic (Indian, Thai, Japanese, French, Mexican, German [Rosamunde Sausage Grill], Ethiopian, and Mideastern) and all-American (Kate’s Kitchen, Memphis Minnie’s Bar-B-Que, Mystic Pizza, and Burger Joint). The street’s also known for its eclectic salons and barbershops, from the Wak Shack Salon and Edo’s to Aquarius Barbershop.

One sore spot amid all of the humming commercial life of late has been the cropping up of medical-marijuana dispensaries; though the city’s planning department sees no link between these storefronts and crime, some merchants object to the fact that “clients” often resell the cannabis on the street, attracting a criminal element.

Perhaps the densely populated area and its popular restaurants and shops explain why parking can be difficult, particularly midday. Most who live south of Haight Street get the “S” residential parking permit, allowing them to disregard the two-hour parking limits.

The neighborhood has a strong tradition of creative graffiti; the sides of many buildings, especially along Haight, feature fancifully executed, multicolored works (some of which, like the one inhabited by odd creatures on the corner of Haight and Steiner, appear to be commissioned murals). But, despite the fact that there are also a few galleries here showcasing street art, the scourge of impromptu graffiti (the sort of “spray-painting” that defaces facades and irks property owners) is also making ugly inroads on the neighborhood’s homes and storefronts.

Though the area is not known as a particularly kid-friendly place, one public school serves youth in the area, John Muir Elementary (on Webster and Oak), which got a 1 out of 10 rating from GreatSchools. A brighter spot is the Harvey Milk Recreational Arts Center, at the west end of Duboce Park (an expanse of lawn bordering the Lower Haight’s southern end), which hosts the San Francisco Park Department’s drama, dance, and music divisions and photography center, offering classes in ethnic-jazz, tap, hula, and ballroom dance; voice and piano; and aerobics. It is home to the Young People’s Teen Musical Theater, the San Francisco Adult Free Civic Theater and the Midnight Music Program.

The area has four major bus lines: the Nos. 6 and 71, which travel back and forth on Haight, and the Nos. 22 and 24, which go mostly north/south on Fillmore and Divisadero, respectively. The “N” streetcar, which emerges from underground near the neighborhood’s southern boundary (behind the Safeway on Market), is popular for commuters with jobs downtown or for those seeking a fairly fast way to get to Ocean Beach. The neighborhood is also a few blocks away from all of MUNI’s subway lines at Church and Market.

The legacy of numerous, nearby rundown housing projects (which have been either razed, rebuilt, or replaced by low-income housing) gives the area a perhaps undeserved reputation as a hotbed for crime. This may still be true in terms of assaults, robberies, and burglaries, which are higher here than elsewhere. And vehicle theft and car break-ins have become common in the area (following a citywide trend). Noise nuisances and vandalism are, as ever, a problem. Otherwise, things have calmed down a lot in the last few years, with only two homicides in the last three years (both committed in 2007).

As for real estate, the neighborhood has rebounded from the recent economic downturn, showing only a slight decline (1.5 percent) in median sales price in the last year, and a significant increase in the last months. Many recent sales have been for condos or flats in multi-unit buildings; these are going from $420,000 to $900,000, depending on number of bedrooms as well as location. Detached, single-family homes (where available) are going from $900,000 to $1.4 million. Rentals, likewise, have been fairly solid for the last year, with studios (if you can find one) starting at $800 and up, one bedrooms going for $1,500 and up, and two- and three-bedrooms going for $2,000 and up—all depending on location and amenities.

Back in 1997, the San Francisco Chronicle referred to Lower Haight as “grungey, post-punk bohemian.” A lot has changed in the last decade, notably the grunge and the post-punk. It’s still not clean, per se, but considerably less trashy and a lot more grown-up, with serious young professionals occupying the apartments and residences and frequenting the trendy restaurants and bars. The bohemian side still exists, though perhaps on an older, wiser level. Just look at the prices for some of the artwork in the area’s galleries, and you’ll see that these are bohemians who have caught on to capitalism, big time.

Duboce is a quirky neighborhood with many convenient features. In the tip of the triangle are tucked away heavenly tree-lined streets like Henry, Belcher and 15th with well-kept Victorian flats and single-family homes. Noe Street begins in the Duboce Triangle. This lesser-known stretch of Noe is beloved by its residents and many have created little street gardens with public benches along the street’s ample sidewalks. There is also a lovely coffee house, a sushi restaurant and a very romantic and tiny French restaurant named L’ardoise.

Near Market Street the Duboce neighborhood becomes more funky and run-down but you can’t beat the location! It’s close to the Market Street transportation hub and MUNI K, L , M and J lines run directly through the neighborhood. The “wiggle” a well-known and well-used bike route runs directly through Duboce, right alongside charming Duboce Park or “Dog Park”. Over the last few years there has been a tug-of-war going on between the two camps of those who want parks for humans and those who want parks for dogs. The neighborhood seems to have struck a great compromise, and a well-designed low-hanging chain fence now delineates a dog section where dogs of all sizes and breeds frolic in the green grass and drink water out of their very own doggie drinking fountain. The upper section of the park is reserved for humans only, complete with a playground and the newly renovated Harvey Milk Community Center. Duboce Triangle is also home to Golden Produce—the BEST independent grocer in San Francisco.

The F streetcar will get you to Duboce Triangle or the Art Deco Ghetto and once you arrive...enjoy! Deco Ghetto has lots of local flavor and is continuing to grow right before our eyes.

Sights around the neighborhood include Black Hearts Tattoos, a landmark San Francisco drinking hole/tattoo parlor. Also around the area you will find many art deco shops and antique stores.

Nightlife includes the CAV Wine Bar and Kitchen - a casual wine bar that offers plates of game hen, Martuni's - 80s tongue in cheek classy and spacious bar, and many more.

Be sure to stop by Ceasar's Cafe on Valencia Street for coffee and sweet homemade crepes. They also have live music every Saturday night.

Reasonably easy to find parking includes a garage on Mission Street as well as metered parking on Market and most side streets.