Pioneer Square

If you were a tourist to Seattle about 100 years ago and had someone direct you to the town center, they would have brought you to Pioneer Square. Before you tipped them and sent them on their way, they would have been sure to point out the tallest building west of the Mississippi, Smith Tower.

Now, fast forward to 2010 and keep the same scenario. Smith Tower would still look impressive, but its glory would quickly fade as the 76 floor Columbia Tower comes into view to the northeast. Quite a few of the buildings look similar as they did in the last century, but Qwest Field (to the south) would certainly be a surprise.

The boundaries of the neighborhood generally extend from South Royal Brougham Way north to Cherry St. From west to east it stretches from Puget Sound to 4th Ave, except above Yesler where it reaches to the interstate. The neighborhood area is somewhat fluid as there is debate over where the edges of the community fall.

Let's start our tour of Pioneer Square from the south...

As I mentioned, it's hard to miss Qwest Field, home of the Seattle Seahawks Football Team. The stadium and northern parking lot account for several city blocks. Major thoroughfares extending from the south (Looking West to East) are Alaskan Way, the Viaduct, 1st Ave South, and 4th Ave South. Occidental Ave South runs north/south along the west side of the stadium, connecting South Royal Brougham Way to South King St. Anything west of Alaskan Way and the Viaduct is industrial. There are some businesses that run along Occidental, many being sports-related. The Triangle Pub off of 1st Ave South is a very large place to grab a pint and good food. Make sure, however, you avoid coming here before or after game time or you could be waiting awhile for your seat.

North of the stadium parking lot is where urban living kicks in. The historic King Street Train Station is to the east. Quite a few coffee shops and restaurants greet you in the first city block, mainly drawing business off travelers and sports fans. Some of these venues include Zeitgeist Kunst & Kafee, Cafe in the Court, Tiki Bob's Cantina, King Street Bar & Oven, Starbucks, Tully's and Beba's Deli.

Moving now to the area between South Jackson and South Main St, you encounter the beginning of Pioneer Square-esque landscape with a jaunt down the historic Occidental Avenue pathway. It might feel as if you just stepped back into the 1920's for a few minutes, especially with the art galleries on the west side of the street. Again, quite a few venues in this chunk of the neighborhood, but one that I especially like is Elliot Bay Books & Cafe. A delightful place to go when you want to go unnoticed for a time. Browse the generous book supply upstairs, then descend to the basement for a quality cup and pastry. They might even let you take that enticing book to the cafe (Because you're surely not going to buy it with a price of $75).

The next section is the hot spot. You now enter more green space with Occidental Park on the west side and Waterfall Garden Park (The former site of the original UPS facility) on the east side. These two areas are a breath of fresh air for any professional, tourist, family, etc. Sit and listen to the soothing, yet powerful 20 foot waterfall or just pick a spot to read that expensive book you threw on your credit card (You felt bad returning it, so you just bought it). Just a couple of days ago, President Obama visited and had lunch at the Grand Central Bakery on 1st Ave South. Head west past the Alaskan Way Viaduct and encounter the Port of Seattle. Anything that comes in or out of the city is monitored here. Note to cyclists: On the far east side, towards the interstate, you'll find Bikestation Seattle, where you can securely store your bike while downtown.

Now, head up to the section of Pioneer Square between South Washington St. and Yesler Way. In addition to numerous companies and small businesses, you'll continue to find great places to eat like New Orleans Creole, Last Supper Club, Merchants Cafe, and Tat's Delicatessen. Does your sweet tooth like to lead you, then step in Cow Chip Cookies to savor their mouthwatering creations. Looking to the east side features the Pioneer Square Community Association, where you can get connected to local neighborhood folks and events. Evidence of Seattle's Judicial System become evident with various law-related establishments.

The last section of the neighborhood is from Yesler Way to roughly Cherry Street (Which runs diagonally from 1st Avenue to I-5). You'll notice the architecture becomes less early 20th century and begins to blend with the modern. This is especially true as you head to the northeast towards the King County Jail. If you're called to jury duty, you would report to the municipal court near 5th and James St. Look up, because you're in the shadow of the tallest building in Seattle, the Columbia Tower. Heading southwest, away from the justice area, you'll come to the region that houses the Smith Tower and a cluster of restaurants. One place of interest here is the Underground Tour where you can go back in time by actually venturing underneath the streets to see evidences of the old Seattle. Essentially, the modern downtown as we know it has been built upon this older area. So, for three hours, you'll be whisked to different secret locations to hear secrets about the past. One final place that may interest you is the Vashon Passenger Ferry Walk and Pier 50 to take you to West Seattle or Vashon Islnd. You'll need to cross Alaskan Way on Yesler to access this.

Well, I hope that has given you some idea of the Pioneer Square experience. The best way, of course, is to just submerge yourself in this rich neighborhood and see what you run into. It is difficult to describe the experience in writing, so get your map and walk the streets of this place that has so many hints of the Emerald City's childhood.

Pioneer Square is essentially a tiny plaza that packs in a lot to do and see. A great retro clothing store called Diva Dolls lives on Cherry St & Yesler Way where the staff treats you like you’re the most important customer they’ve ever had and the clothes look like you can step out in them and head straight to a USO dance or at least head over to the Last Supper Club, a hot nightlife spot.
Walk a little ways down 1st street and you can browse a multi-level antique store which has so many items and rooms you feel like you’ll never see everything before they close for the night. A lot of tourist attractions call the Square home and this is where you can take in the Underground Seattle tour which shows the left over dwellings of the original Seattle before a big earthquake buried it.

For those of people looking for more than a historic tour Pioneer Square the nightlife is big and bold. There’s a host of bars and nightclubs to choose from like Trinity Night club with its three different dance rooms, the Triangle Pub and Tiki Bobs Cantina, to name only a few. You’ll defiantly never be bored at Pioneer Square.

Pioneer Square is the oldest neighborhood in Seattle. Once the heart of the city, the Pioneer Square area burned to the ground in the Great Seattle Fire of 1889. After the fire, the area was rebuilt with stately buildings of brick and stone, many of which are still standing. Soon after it was rebuilt, the street level was raised by one story. If you want to see the old storefronts, take the popular Seattle Underground Tour. Pioneer Square is also home to Smith Tower, which was the tallest building west of the Mississippi when it was built in 1914.

Located just to the southwest of the downtown business core, Pioneer Square is roughly bounded by Alaskan Way S. to the west, 5th Avenue on the east, South King Street on the south and Yesler Way to the north. Today, this historic district is home to restaurants, coffee shops, art galleries, and nightclubs. If you're in search of a one-of-a-kind gift or a hidden treasure, Pioneer Square is the place to shop. There are also plenty of green spaces, including Pioneer Place Park, home to an iron pergola and a Tlingit totem pole.

Although it has a bit of a rough reputation because of the large homeless population congregating here to make use of the many social services here, the Pioneer Square neighborhood is quite charming, with a lot of character. Long known as "Skid Row," where vice has long been tolerated, in recent decades the area has witnessed a resurgence, with classy bars and galleries moving in. You may not feel comfortable walking alone here at night if you're not used to the city, but the area is quite safe in the daytime.

Though Pioneer Square is a great shopping area, I wouldn't recommend living here. There are no single-family homes, only condos, and they are typically some of the most expensive per square foot in the entire city. Because the area is easily accessible by public transportation, I recommend living elsewhere in the city.